{"id":15384,"date":"2026-05-07T07:22:03","date_gmt":"2026-05-07T07:22:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/?p=15384"},"modified":"2026-05-07T07:22:05","modified_gmt":"2026-05-07T07:22:05","slug":"why-white-plastisol-ink-cracks-after-washing-and-how-german-print-shops-fix-it","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/why-white-plastisol-ink-cracks-after-washing-and-how-german-print-shops-fix-it\/","title":{"rendered":"Por que a tinta plastisol branca racha ap\u00f3s a lavagem (e como as gr\u00e1ficas alem\u00e3s resolvem o problema)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Forget the number on your dryer\u2019s digital display. Most of the time, it\u2019s lying to you. The real secret to a perfect print isn&#8217;t the air temperature inside the tunnel\u2014it\u2019s getting the heat to punch all the way through to the very bottom of the ink layer. If that white ink doesn&#8217;t hit a solid 160\u00b0C (320\u00b0F) from top to bottom, it\u2019s going to stay brittle and snap like a cracker.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>By nailing this one technical detail, we don\u2019t just help you stop the&nbsp;plastisol ink cracking; we help you build a shop known for shirts that last for years. You\u2019ll kill off those expensive customer returns and finally have the confidence to charge premium prices for your work. At&nbsp;<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/\">ECOPRINTINK<\/a><\/strong>, we\u2019ve spent years in the trenches of production floors to turn this &#8220;ink problem&#8221; into a science.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-rank-math-toc-block\" id=\"rank-math-toc\"><h2>\u00cdndice<\/h2><nav><ul><li><a href=\"#the-german-standard-of-ink-fusion\">The &#8220;German Standard&#8221; of Ink Fusion<\/a><ul><li><a href=\"#why-german-precision-matters\">Why German Precision Matters:<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li><a href=\"#1-the-science-why-white-ink-is-the-hardest-to-cure\">1. The Science: Why White Ink is the Hardest to Cure<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#2-best-practice-the-stretch-and-snap-test\">2. Best Practice: The &#8220;Stretch and Snap&#8221; Test<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#3-the-4-big-culprits-of-the-screen-printing-cracking-issue\">3. The 4 Big Culprits of the Screen Printing Cracking Issue<\/a><ul><li><a href=\"#a-the-laser-temp-gun-trap\">A. The &#8220;Laser Temp Gun&#8221; Trap<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#b-soggy-mesh-tension\">B. &#8220;Soggy&#8221; Mesh Tension<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#c-the-stolen-heat-in-cotton\">C. The &#8220;Stolen Heat&#8221; in Cotton<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#d-over-flashing-your-underbase\">D. Over-Flashing Your Underbase<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li><a href=\"#4-technical-data-curing-speed-vs-temperature\">4. Technical Data: Curing Speed vs. Temperature<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#5-the-professional-fix-step-by-step\">5. The Professional Fix (Step-by-Step)<\/a><ul><li><a href=\"#step-1-calibrate-the-beast\">Step 1: Calibrate the Beast<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#step-2-use-the-right-ink\">Step 2: Use the Right Ink<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#step-3-check-your-chemistry\">Step 3: Check Your Chemistry<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#step-4-know-your-substrate\">Step 4: Know Your Substrate<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li><a href=\"#real-talk-faq-for-the-modern-print-shop\">Real Talk: FAQ for the Modern Print Shop<\/a><ul><li><a href=\"#faq-question-1775035127705\">Q1: A client just brought back a cracked shirt. Can I just &#8216;re-bake&#8217; it under a heat press to fix the crack?<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#faq-question-1775035160605\">Q2: Is low-cure white ink actually worth the hype, or is it just a marketing gimmick?<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#faq-question-1775035186717\">Q3: Why does my print look perfect but then peel off in one big sheet like a giant sticker?<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#faq-question-1775035234508\">Q4: I want a softer feel. Can I just dump a bunch of reducer into the white ink?<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#faq-question-1775035275588\">Q5: My dryer display says 320\u00b0F (160\u00b0C). Why am I still getting returns for cracked ink?<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"the-german-standard-of-ink-fusion\">The &#8220;German Standard&#8221; of Ink Fusion<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>In high-end German print houses, they don&#8217;t leave quality to &#8220;gut feeling.&#8221; Shops using&nbsp;MHM&nbsp;or&nbsp;Tesoma&nbsp;equipment treat the curing process like a laboratory experiment. Precision is everything.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>63. O&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/solucoes-de-tinta-plastisol-para-serigrafia\/\">screen printing cracking issue<\/a>&nbsp;almost always happens because the surface of the white ink (which is thick and bright) reflects the heat away, leaving the &#8220;belly&#8221; of the print raw. When the shirt hits the washing machine and the cotton stretches, that raw ink can&#8217;t hold on, and the whole design shatters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"why-german-precision-matters\">Why German Precision Matters:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Total Polymerization:<\/strong>&nbsp;Ensuring our&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/tinta-de-impressao-nao-bloqueante-fornecedor-de-tinta-de-impressao-nb\/\">tinta plastisol<\/a>&nbsp;turns from a liquid into a solid, flexible plastic film.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Fighting the Heat Sink:<\/strong>&nbsp;Realizing that heavy cotton garments actually &#8220;steal&#8221; heat from the ink during the curing process.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>No More Guessing:<\/strong>&nbsp;Moving away from hand-feel and using actual data to confirm the cure.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"1-the-science-why-white-ink-is-the-hardest-to-cure\">1. The Science: Why White Ink is the Hardest to Cure<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>White ink is loaded with Titanium Dioxide. It\u2019s what makes the print pop, but it also acts like a mirror for infrared heat. According to technical data from\u00a0Wilfle, white plastisol requires significantly more &#8220;dwell time&#8221; than a dark ink. If you run your dryer at the same speed for a thin black hit as you do for a thick white underbase, the white ink will fail the wash test every single time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p><strong>Expert Insight:<\/strong>&nbsp;&#8220;A print that feels dry to the touch is often just &#8216;tacked.&#8217; True curing is a chemical reaction that must happen at the core of the ink deposit.&#8221; \u2014&nbsp;<em>MHM Siebdruckmaschinen<\/em>.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"750\" height=\"750\" src=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Why-White-Plastisol-Ink-Cracks-After-Washing-And-How-German-Print-Shops-Fix-It.jpg\" alt=\"Por que a tinta plastisol branca racha ap\u00f3s a lavagem (e como as gr\u00e1ficas alem\u00e3s resolvem o problema)\" class=\"wp-image-15386\" style=\"width:499px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Why-White-Plastisol-Ink-Cracks-After-Washing-And-How-German-Print-Shops-Fix-It.jpg 750w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Why-White-Plastisol-Ink-Cracks-After-Washing-And-How-German-Print-Shops-Fix-It-600x600.jpg 600w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Why-White-Plastisol-Ink-Cracks-After-Washing-And-How-German-Print-Shops-Fix-It-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Why-White-Plastisol-Ink-Cracks-After-Washing-And-How-German-Print-Shops-Fix-It-12x12.jpg 12w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Why-White-Plastisol-Ink-Cracks-After-Washing-And-How-German-Print-Shops-Fix-It-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"2-best-practice-the-stretch-and-snap-test\">2. Best Practice: The &#8220;Stretch and Snap&#8221; Test<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Before you ship an order, you need a reality check. We always recommend the&nbsp;Stretch Test. Wait for the shirt to cool down completely, then:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Firmly pull the printed area (about 50% of its width).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Watch the surface closely. Does it spider-web or crack?<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>If it cracks and stays open, you\u2019re under-cured.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>If it stretches and snaps back like a rubber band, you\u2019ve nailed the&nbsp;white ink wash fastness.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"3-the-4-big-culprits-of-the-screen-printing-cracking-issue\">3. The 4 Big Culprits of the Screen Printing Cracking Issue<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"a-the-laser-temp-gun-trap\">A. The &#8220;Laser Temp Gun&#8221; Trap<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Laser thermometers only read the surface temperature. For a thick layer of white ink, the surface might be a scorching 180\u00b0C, while the ink touching the fabric is a cold 130\u00b0C.<br><strong>A solu\u00e7\u00e3o:<\/strong>&nbsp;Use&nbsp;<strong>Thermo-Tel Strips<\/strong>&nbsp;that actually travel through the dryer on the garment to see what&#8217;s happening at the base level.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"b-soggy-mesh-tension\">B. &#8220;Soggy&#8221; Mesh Tension<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>If your screens are loose, you end up &#8220;plastering&#8221; a thick, uneven mountain of ink onto the garment. Thicker ink is a nightmare to cure properly. By&nbsp;choosing the right screen printing mesh counts&nbsp;and keeping your Newtons high, you get a thinner, flatter ink deposit that the heat can penetrate easily.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"c-the-stolen-heat-in-cotton\">C. The &#8220;Stolen Heat&#8221; in Cotton<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Cotton holds moisture. When a damp shirt enters the dryer, the heat spends its energy evaporating that water instead of curing our&nbsp;plastisol ink.<br><strong>Best Practice:<\/strong>&nbsp;Many &#8220;Meister&#8221; shops in Germany pre-heat their garments with a flash unit before the first print stroke to drive out that hidden moisture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"d-over-flashing-your-underbase\">D. Over-Flashing Your Underbase<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>If you flash your underbase until it\u2019s hard and crispy, the top colors have nothing to &#8220;bite&#8221; into. It\u2019s like trying to glue two pieces of glass together. You want that first layer to be just &#8220;tacky&#8221;\u2014dry enough that it doesn&#8217;t smear, but still chemically &#8220;open&#8221; to bond with the next layer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"4-technical-data-curing-speed-vs-temperature\">4. Technical Data: Curing Speed vs. Temperature<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Based on our testing at&nbsp;ECOPRINTINK&nbsp;and industry standards from the&nbsp;Printing United Alliance, here is how to gauge your tunnel settings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table class=\"has-fixed-layout\"><tbody><tr><td>Tipo de Tecido<\/td><td>Espessura da tinta<\/td><td>Required Core Temp<\/td><td>Recommended Dryer Time<\/td><td>Wash Fastness Result<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Algod\u00e3o 100%<\/td><td>Standard<\/td><td>160\u00b0C \/ 320\u00b0F<\/td><td>60-90 Seconds<\/td><td>Excellent (50+ Washes)<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Poly-Blend<\/td><td>High-Opacity<\/td><td>145\u00b0C \/ 290\u00b0F<\/td><td>90-120 Seconds<\/td><td>Good (Needs low-bleed)<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Heavy Fleece<\/td><td>Thick Deposit<\/td><td>160\u00b0C \/ 320\u00b0F<\/td><td>120+ Seconds<\/td><td>High Risk of Cracking<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"5-the-professional-fix-step-by-step\">5. The Professional Fix (Step-by-Step)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"step-1-calibrate-the-beast\">Step 1: Calibrate the Beast<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Stop trusting the digital readout on your oven. We suggest running a temperature strip test once a week. Investing in&nbsp;conveyor dryer calibration&nbsp;is the cheapest insurance policy your shop can have.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"step-2-use-the-right-ink\">Step 2: Use the Right Ink<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>If you\u2019re fighting thick, heavy prints, don&#8217;t just dump reducer into the bucket. Use a&nbsp;high-opacity white ink&nbsp;designed to sit on the surface. Our&nbsp;<strong>ECOPRINTINK<\/strong>&nbsp;formula is built to fuse quickly without losing that bright &#8220;pop.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"step-3-check-your-chemistry\">Step 3: Check Your Chemistry<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Modern shops are moving toward safer, better-performing inks. We focus on&nbsp;understanding <a href=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/fornecedor-de-tintas-plastisol-sem-pvc\/\">phthalate-free screen printing inks<\/a>&nbsp;because they typically have much better elongation (stretch) than the old-school stuff, which directly cuts down on the&nbsp;<strong>screen printing cracking issue<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"step-4-know-your-substrate\">Step 4: Know Your Substrate<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>When you are&nbsp;choosing between plastisol vs. water-based ink, remember that plastisol is still the king of durability on tricky blends, provided you hit those fusion temps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"750\" height=\"750\" src=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Why-White-Plastisol-Ink-Cracks-After-Washing-And-How-German-Print-Shops-Fix-It1.jpg\" alt=\"Why White Plastisol Ink Cracks After Washing (And How German Print Shops Fix It\" class=\"wp-image-15387\" style=\"width:557px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Why-White-Plastisol-Ink-Cracks-After-Washing-And-How-German-Print-Shops-Fix-It1.jpg 750w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Why-White-Plastisol-Ink-Cracks-After-Washing-And-How-German-Print-Shops-Fix-It1-600x600.jpg 600w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Why-White-Plastisol-Ink-Cracks-After-Washing-And-How-German-Print-Shops-Fix-It1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Why-White-Plastisol-Ink-Cracks-After-Washing-And-How-German-Print-Shops-Fix-It1-12x12.jpg 12w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/Why-White-Plastisol-Ink-Cracks-After-Washing-And-How-German-Print-Shops-Fix-It1-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"real-talk-faq-for-the-modern-print-shop\">Real Talk: FAQ for the Modern Print Shop<\/h2>\n\n\n<div id=\"rank-math-faq\" class=\"rank-math-block\">\n<div class=\"rank-math-list\">\n<div id=\"faq-question-1775035127705\" class=\"rank-math-list-item\">\n<h3 class=\"rank-math-question\">Q<strong>1: A client just brought back a cracked shirt. Can I just &#8216;re-bake&#8217; it under a heat press to fix the crack?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<div class=\"rank-math-answer\">\n\n<p>Look, I get asked this a lot, and I wish I had better news. The short answer? No. Once that\u00a0plastisol ink cracking\u00a0happens after a wash, the bridge is already burnt. You can\u2019t &#8220;heal&#8221; a chemical split. If you heat press it now, you might flatten the ink, but the structural failure is still there. Your best bet? Use it as a &#8220;lesson learned&#8221; piece for your staff and fix your dryer speed before the rest of the batch goes out.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"faq-question-1775035160605\" class=\"rank-math-list-item\">\n<h3 class=\"rank-math-question\">Q<strong>2: Is low-cure white ink actually worth the hype, or is it just a marketing gimmick?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<div class=\"rank-math-answer\">\n\n<p>It\u2019s definitely not a gimmick, but you have to know\u00a0<em>why<\/em>\u00a0you\u2019re using it. At\u00a0ECOPRINTINK, we see guys using low-cure ink to save on electricity, which is fine. But the real &#8220;save&#8221; is on 100% polyester or tri-blends. If you blast a poly-blend shirt with enough heat to cure standard white ink, you\u2019ll trigger dye migration (the shirt color bleeding into your white). Low-cure ink lets you stay in that &#8220;safe zone&#8221; (around 135\u00b0C\/270\u00b0F) so you get great\u00a0white ink wash fastness\u00a0without turning your white print pink.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"faq-question-1775035186717\" class=\"rank-math-list-item\">\n<h3 class=\"rank-math-question\">Q<strong>3: Why does my print look perfect but then peel off in one big sheet like a giant sticker?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<div class=\"rank-math-answer\">\n\n<p>This isn&#8217;t exactly the same as a\u00a0screen printing cracking issue\u2014this is a total adhesion failure. Usually, it means you &#8220;over-flashed&#8221; your underbase. If you bake that first layer of white until it\u2019s hard and slick, the top layer of ink has nothing to grab onto. It\u2019s sitting\u00a0on top\u00a0of the first layer instead of bonding\u00a0with\u00a0it. The rule of thumb? Your flash-cured ink should feel like the back of a Post-it note: tacky, but nothing comes off on your finger.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"faq-question-1775035234508\" class=\"rank-math-list-item\">\n<h3 class=\"rank-math-question\">Q<strong>4: I want a softer feel. Can I just dump a bunch of reducer into the white ink?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<div class=\"rank-math-answer\">\n\n<p>You\u00a0can, but you\u2019re playing with fire. Reducer is basically liquid plasticizer without the resin. If you over-do it (usually more than 10-15%), you\u2019re essentially &#8220;watering down&#8221; the glue that holds the ink together. You\u2019ll get a soft print, sure, but you\u2019re almost guaranteeing a cracking disaster after three washes. If you want a soft hand, use a higher mesh count or a premium &#8220;soft-base&#8221; white instead of trying to &#8220;thin out&#8221; a heavy-duty ink.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"faq-question-1775035275588\" class=\"rank-math-list-item\">\n<h3 class=\"rank-math-question\">Q<strong>5: My dryer display says 320\u00b0F (160\u00b0C). Why am I still getting returns for cracked ink?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<div class=\"rank-math-answer\">\n\n<p>Because your dryer\u2019s digital display is a liar. Most of those sensors are measuring the air temperature near the heating elements, not the actual ink on the belt. Between the wind in your shop and how thick the garment is, the ink might be 30 degrees colder than the screen says. Do yourself a favor: grab some temperature strips and run them on the left, right, and center of the belt. Most cracking issues are solved the minute a shop realizes they have a cold spot in their dryer.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By nailing this one technical detail, we don\u2019t just help you stop the\u00a0plastisol ink cracking; we help you build a shop known for shirts that last for years. You\u2019ll kill off those expensive customer returns and finally have the confidence to charge premium prices for your work. At\u00a0ECOPRINTINK, we\u2019ve spent years in the trenches of production floors to turn this &#8220;ink problem&#8221; into a science.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":15388,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[235],"class_list":["post-15384","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-screen-printing-guide","tag-why-white-plastisol-ink-cracks-after-washing"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15384","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/10"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=15384"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15384\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":15456,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15384\/revisions\/15456"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/15388"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=15384"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=15384"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/pt\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=15384"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}