{"id":15351,"date":"2026-01-24T09:30:33","date_gmt":"2026-01-24T09:30:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/?p=15351"},"modified":"2026-01-24T09:31:18","modified_gmt":"2026-01-24T09:31:18","slug":"why-your-plastisol-ink-cracks-after-washing-and-how-to-fix-it","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/why-your-plastisol-ink-cracks-after-washing-and-how-to-fix-it\/","title":{"rendered":"Why Your Plastisol Ink Cracks After Washing (And How to Fix It)"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"wp-block-rank-math-toc-block\" id=\"rank-math-toc\"><h2>Table of Contents<\/h2><nav><ul><li><a href=\"#the-science-of-the-crack-fusion-vs-gelling\">The Science of the Crack: Fusion vs. Gelling<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#top-3-reasons-your-prints-are-cracking\">Top 3 Reasons Your Prints Are Cracking<\/a><ul><li><a href=\"#1-under-curing-the-silent-killer\">1. Under-Curing (The Silent Killer)<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#2-fibrillation-the-fuzzy-crack\">2. Fibrillation (The &#8220;Fuzzy&#8221; Crack)<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#3-ink-deposit-thickness\">3. Ink Deposit Thickness<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li><a href=\"#how-to-test-for-cure-before-you-ship\">How to Test for Cure\u00a0Before\u00a0You Ship<\/a><ul><li><a href=\"#the-stretch-test\">The Stretch Test<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#the-wash-test\">The Wash Test<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li><a href=\"#solving-the-problem-a-step-by-step-guide\">Solving the Problem: A Step-by-Step Guide<\/a><ul><li><a href=\"#step-1-calibrate-your-dryer-with-a-donut-probe\">Step 1: calibrate Your Dryer with a Donut Probe<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#step-2-adjust-dwell-time-not-just-heat\">Step 2: Adjust Dwell Time, Not Just Heat<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#step-3-switch-to-high-elasticity-inks\">Step 3: Switch to High-Elasticity Inks<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li><a href=\"#internal-case-study-saving-a-5-000-shirt-order\">Internal Case Study: Saving a 5,000 Shirt Order<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#why-choose-pvc-free-plastisol-ink\">Why Choose PVC Free Plastisol Ink?<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#faq-frequently-asked-questions\">FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions<\/a><ul><li><a href=\"#faq-question-1769245584097\">Q: Can I use a heat gun to cure plastisol ink?<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#faq-question-1769245609482\">Q: Does white ink crack more than black ink?<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#faq-question-1769245624469\">Q: My ink is cracking, but I cured it at 320\u00b0F. Why?<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#faq-question-1769245643439\">Q: Is silicone ink better for preventing cracking?<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li><a href=\"#conclusion\">Conclusion<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>We\u2019ve all been there. You crush a run of 500 shirts\u2014the colors are popping, the opacity is dead on. You get &#8217;em boxed up and out the door to the client. Two weeks later, the angry email arrives:\u00a0<em>&#8220;The logo is cracking after one wash.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For a screen printing business, this is a nightmare. It damages your reputation and costs money in reprints.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At\u00a0ECOPRINTING, we understand the chemistry behind the ink. As an OEM manufacturer of high-quality\u00a0PVC free plastisol ink, we treat this issue daily. The short answer?\u00a090% of the time, ink cracks because it didn&#8217;t reach the correct curing temperature all the way through the ink layer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In this guide, we will break down exactly why this happens, the science behind the &#8220;crack,&#8221; and how to fix it permanently using industry best practices.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"the-science-of-the-crack-fusion-vs-gelling\">The Science of the Crack: Fusion vs. Gelling<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>To stop cracking, you must understand what plastisol ink actually is. Unlike water-based inks that dry by evaporation, plastisol is a\u00a0thermoplastic. It doesn&#8217;t &#8220;dry&#8221;; it\u00a0cures\u00a0(fuses).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Think of plastisol ink like a chocolate chip cookie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Gel Stage (220\u00b0F \/ 104\u00b0C):<\/strong>\u00a0The ink is dry to the touch but hasn&#8217;t fused. It\u2019s like a cookie that looks done but is still raw dough in the middle.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Full Cure (320\u00b0F \/ 160\u00b0C):<\/strong>\u00a0The PVC resin and plasticizers cross-link completely, creating a solid, elastic film.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>If your ink stops at 290\u00b0F, it&#8217;s only in the &#8216;gel&#8217; stage. It looks finished on the board, but once it hits the washing machine, the mechanical action will snap those weak bonds, causing the print to crack.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"top-3-reasons-your-prints-are-cracking\">Top 3 Reasons Your Prints Are Cracking<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"983\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/PVC-free-Screen-Printing-White-Plastisol-Ink-1-983x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"PVC-free Screen Printing White Plastisol Ink\" class=\"wp-image-15056\" srcset=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/PVC-free-Screen-Printing-White-Plastisol-Ink-1-983x1024.jpeg 983w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/PVC-free-Screen-Printing-White-Plastisol-Ink-1-576x600.jpeg 576w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/PVC-free-Screen-Printing-White-Plastisol-Ink-1-768x800.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/PVC-free-Screen-Printing-White-Plastisol-Ink-1-1474x1536.jpeg 1474w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/PVC-free-Screen-Printing-White-Plastisol-Ink-1-1966x2048.jpeg 1966w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/PVC-free-Screen-Printing-White-Plastisol-Ink-1-600x625.jpeg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 983px) 100vw, 983px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Based on our lab data at ECOPRINTING and industry standards, these are the three most common culprits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"1-under-curing-the-silent-killer\">1. Under-Curing (The Silent Killer)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>This is the most common cause. Many printers confuse\u00a0dryer temperature\u00a0with\u00a0ink temperature.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Just because your dryer is set to 350\u00b0F doesn&#8217;t mean the ink reached 320\u00b0F.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The Issue:\u00a0If the conveyor belt is too fast, the ink surface might hit 320\u00b0F, but the bottom layer (touching the cool shirt) might only reach 280\u00b0F.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The Result:\u00a0Surface tension holds for a while, but the &#8220;uncooked&#8221; bottom layer fails under stress.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p><strong>Industry Insight:<\/strong>\u00a0According to\u00a0lawson screen &amp; digital products, cracking is almost exclusively a symptom of thick, under-cured ink deposits, while washing out completely indicates a severe under-cure.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"2-fibrillation-the-fuzzy-crack\">2. Fibrillation (The &#8220;Fuzzy&#8221; Crack)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Sometimes, the ink isn&#8217;t cracking\u2014the shirt is breaking through the ink. This is called\u00a0fibrillation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>What happens:<\/strong>\u00a0During washing, the fibers of the cotton fabric untwist and poke through the ink layer.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Appearance:<\/strong>\u00a0The print looks faded or &#8220;frosted,&#8221; which customers often confuse with cracking ink.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Prevention:<\/strong>\u00a0This requires a smoother underbase or a specific &#8220;mat-down&#8221; screen to flatten fibers before the final cure.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"3-ink-deposit-thickness\">3. Ink Deposit Thickness<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Too Thick:<\/strong>\u00a0A &#8220;bulletproof&#8221; print (heavy deposit) is more rigid. If the ink is thicker than the fabric&#8217;s ability to stretch, it will snap and crack.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Too Thin:<\/strong>\u00a0If you don&#8217;t lay down enough ink on a rough fabric (like a pique polo), the ink film isn&#8217;t strong enough to bridge the gaps in the weave.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"how-to-test-for-cure-before-you-ship\">How to Test for Cure&nbsp;<em>Before<\/em>&nbsp;You Ship<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>You should never wait for a customer to tell you your ink isn&#8217;t cured. We recommend implementing these two tests into your daily production workflow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"the-stretch-test\">The Stretch Test<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>This is the quickest way to check cure quality right off the belt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Let the shirt cool down completely (do not test while hot!).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Grab the print and stretch it about 20-30% of its width.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Pass:\u00a0The ink stretches and returns to shape.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Fail:\u00a0The ink cracks like dried mud. This means it is under-cured.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"the-wash-test\">The Wash Test<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>According to\u00a0ECOPRINTING lab, the ultimate durability test is actual laundering.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Take a reject shirt from the run.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Wash it in hot water and dry it on high heat.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Repeat 3-5 times.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>If the print survives this &#8220;torture test,&#8221; it will survive your customer&#8217;s gentle cycle.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"solving-the-problem-a-step-by-step-guide\">Solving the Problem: A Step-by-Step Guide<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>If you are experiencing cracking, follow these steps to resolve it immediately.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"step-1-calibrate-your-dryer-with-a-donut-probe\">Step 1: calibrate Your Dryer with a Donut Probe<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Do not rely on a laser temp gun. Laser guns only read the&nbsp;<em>surface<\/em>&nbsp;temperature.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Best Practice:<\/strong>\u00a0Use a &#8220;Donut Probe&#8221; (a thermal probe that sits on the shirt surface). Run it through the dryer. It gives you a readout of the exact temp the ink hit, plus how long it stayed there\u2014that\u2019s your dwell time..<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Target:<\/strong>\u00a0You need the ink to reach\u00a0320\u00b0F (160\u00b0C)\u00a0and hold it for at least 45 seconds to ensure cross-linking.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"step-2-adjust-dwell-time-not-just-heat\">Step 2: Adjust Dwell Time, Not Just Heat<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>If your ink isn&#8217;t curing,\u00a0slow down the belt. Don&#8217;t just bump up the temp; you&#8217;ll scorch the tees and yellow the whites. Slow down the belt so the heat can soak through the ink without cooking the shirt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"967\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/gold-silkscreen-ink-967x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"gold silkscreen ink\" class=\"wp-image-14655\" srcset=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/gold-silkscreen-ink-967x1024.jpeg 967w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/gold-silkscreen-ink-567x600.jpeg 567w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/gold-silkscreen-ink-768x813.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/gold-silkscreen-ink-1451x1536.jpeg 1451w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/gold-silkscreen-ink-1935x2048.jpeg 1935w, https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/gold-silkscreen-ink-600x635.jpeg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 967px) 100vw, 967px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"step-3-switch-to-high-elasticity-inks\">Step 3: Switch to High-Elasticity Inks<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Not all plastisols are created equal. If you are printing on sportswear or 100% cotton that shrinks, you need an ink that moves with the fabric.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At\u00a0ECOPRINTING, we specialize in\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/product-non-pvc-plastisol-inks-supplier\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">PVC free plastisol ink<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Why it helps:<\/strong>\u00a0Our PVC-free formulas typically offer a softer hand and higher elasticity than traditional rigid plastisols.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Eco-Benefit:<\/strong>\u00a0They are free from phthalates and heavy metals, meeting strict environmental standards like OEKO-TEX, which is a major selling point for B2B buyers in Europe and the US.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"internal-case-study-saving-a-5-000-shirt-order\">Internal Case Study: Saving a 5,000 Shirt Order<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>We recently consulted for a client printing on heavy canvas tote bags. Their prints were cracking immediately.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>The Diagnosis:<\/strong>\u00a0The heavy canvas acted as a heat sink. It absorbed all the heat from the dryer, preventing the ink (which was a thick athletic white) from reaching 320\u00b0F.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>The Fix:<\/strong>\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>We switched them to our\u00a0high opacity <a href=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/best-white-plastisol-ink-wholesale\/\">white plastisol ink<\/a>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>We added a flash cure station to pre-warm the bags.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>We slowed the belt speed by 15%.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Result:<\/strong>\u00a0Zero cracking, and the ink passed the scratch and wash test perfectly.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"why-choose-pvc-free-plastisol-ink\">Why Choose PVC Free Plastisol Ink?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The whole game is changing. Sure, traditional plastisol is bulletproof, but PVC Free is where it&#8217;s at now. That\u2019s the future if you want to stay green.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table class=\"has-fixed-layout\"><tbody><tr><td>Feature<\/td><td>Standard Plastisol<\/td><td>ECOPRINTING PVC Free<\/td><\/tr><tr><td><strong>Curing Temp<\/strong><\/td><td>320\u00b0F (160\u00b0C)<\/td><td>300\u00b0F &#8211; 320\u00b0F (Lower energy)<\/td><\/tr><tr><td><strong>Elasticity<\/strong><\/td><td>Low to Medium<\/td><td>High (Resists cracking)<\/td><\/tr><tr><td><strong>Hand Feel<\/strong><\/td><td>Heavy\/Plastic<\/td><td>Soft\/Breathable<\/td><\/tr><tr><td><strong>Compliance<\/strong><\/td><td>Phthalate-free (usually)<\/td><td>PVC &amp; Phthalate Free<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>If you are looking for additives to improve the stretch of your current ink, check out our\u00a0auxiliary &amp; additives\u00a0section.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"faq-frequently-asked-questions\">FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions<\/h2>\n\n\n<div id=\"rank-math-faq\" class=\"rank-math-block\">\n<div class=\"rank-math-list\">\n<div id=\"faq-question-1769245584097\" class=\"rank-math-list-item\">\n<h3 class=\"rank-math-question\"><strong>Q: Can I use a heat gun to cure plastisol ink?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<div class=\"rank-math-answer\">\n\n<p>A: For professional orders?\u00a0No.\u00a0A heat gun provides uneven heat. You might cure one spot but leave another spot raw, leading to cracking. Use a conveyor dryer or a heat press for consistent results.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"faq-question-1769245609482\" class=\"rank-math-list-item\">\n<h3 class=\"rank-math-question\"><strong>Q: Does white ink crack more than black ink?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<div class=\"rank-math-answer\">\n\n<p>A: Yes, because white ink is thicker (it has more pigment like titanium dioxide). Thicker ink deposits require more heat energy to cure all the way through.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"faq-question-1769245624469\" class=\"rank-math-list-item\">\n<h3 class=\"rank-math-question\"><strong>Q: My ink is cracking, but I cured it at 320\u00b0F. Why?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<div class=\"rank-math-answer\">\n\n<p>A: You likely measured the\u00a0air\u00a0temp, not the\u00a0ink\u00a0temp. Or, you cured the surface, but the layer touching the shirt remained under 300\u00b0F. Use a stretch test to verify.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"faq-question-1769245643439\" class=\"rank-math-list-item\">\n<h3 class=\"rank-math-question\"><strong>Q: Is silicone ink better for preventing cracking?<\/strong><\/h3>\n<div class=\"rank-math-answer\">\n\n<p>A:\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/specialty-ink-manufacturer\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Silicone ink<\/a>\u00a0has the highest elasticity of all inks. If you are printing on spandex or yoga pants, silicone is the superior choice over plastisol.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"conclusion\">Conclusion<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Cracking ink is almost always a temperature management issue. By regularly testing your dryer, performing stretch tests on every batch, and using high-quality elastic inks like those we manufacture at&nbsp;<strong>ECOPRINTING<\/strong>, you can eliminate returns and keep your customers happy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ready to upgrade your production? Explore our range of\u00a0eco-friendly <a href=\"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/screen-printing-plastisol-ink\/\">screen printing inks<\/a>\u00a0and find the perfect solution for your next project.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Stop your screen prints from cracking. Learn the top 3 causes of plastisol ink failure (under-curing, fibrillation) and how to fix them. Discover our high-elasticity PVC Free Plastisol Ink.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":14931,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[231],"class_list":["post-15351","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-screen-printing-guide","tag-plastisol-ink-cracks"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15351","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=15351"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15351\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":15352,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15351\/revisions\/15352"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/14931"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=15351"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=15351"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/plastisolink.us\/ja\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=15351"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}